Saturday, March 27, 2010

email home #9 WITH PICS!

Email 9, Sannu da zuwa, welcome. It’s been a long time since my last update and lots has happened. 3-week training/ first trip back to Niamey in 4 months, Niger’s coup d’etat(!), and dealing with my unfinished new house are the highlights. In order to keep it fresh, I decided to do a newspaper theme this time, but I’m not a news reporter so this is the last time for that theme for a while. My friend Sean, however, is a bonifide sports reporter who, in a previous pre-Peace Corps life, wrote for newspapers. So I invited him to do a piece on our volleyball games (-well the other PCVs’ games since I won’t play it if you pay me). Enjoy the treat from Sean. Also, I included the text of an article from Voice of America and the BBC both about Niger and its socio-political situations.
Also, soon to come, a write up of Girls Camp 2010. Its been awesome. The exact inspiring heart touching kind of story you expect to hear from me.

The Zinder Gazette

PCVs Find Time for Fun and Games in Training
By Audrey
February 8, 2010

HAMDALLAYE -- While hard at work during the three week training, PCVs nonetheless found time and energy to have fun and try new things.

Ice breakers, or games that get the class moving and engaged, are swapped during training periods to keep spirits up and for possible use when PCVs go to their posts.

For this training period, the ’Wa Game’ was introduced by Ghanan evacuee, Nick. This fast paced, loud rhythm game involves fake karate gestures and quick reactions.

A new comer to this game, Audrey soon became a fan. “It’s such an obnoxious, silly game, but it’s addictive!”

PCVs also had the opportunity to ride a camel after Audrey and Alice expressed their interest in riding one. A camel was brought to the Hamdallaye training site and Audrey was the intrepid soul who went first. Some volunteers were more graceful than others, but none fell off and all were at least as capable as language trainer, Sani, whose performance inspired the camel owner to chide that he was a white person.

“I wasn’t afraid of the camel,” said SLH, “I just felt bad for the poor guy because he had to keep getting up and down and he was making noises like a giant grumpy old man.”

A small but awesome group gathered one night for a viewing of the recent Star Trek movie. Sugar cookies which Audrey baked in the shape of com badges were devoured.

“It was a beautiful bonding experience,” said SLH.










****
PCVs Figure Out Importance of Teachers
February 3, 2010
By Audrey

HAMDALLAYE-- PCVs Alice of the Maradi region and Audrey of the Zinder region, spent a productive language clinic writing creative literature in Hausa.

The two had discussed the problem of low morale and self esteem among teachers and lack of perceived importance of teachers in Niger. In Niger, teaching is often perceived as the job an educated person takes if he or she cannot find any better work. Possible initiatives include a teacher appreciation day or dinner and radio awareness campaigns.

So Alice and Audrey began work on a radio script in Hausa which would promote awareness of the importance of education and the role a teacher plays in education.

Progress rolled on smoothly as the volunteers worked out a situation in the script that would allow them to elaborate on all the concrete reasons teachers are important. Then they came to a point in the script when the writers would have to begin articulating the concrete reasons.

“The moment has arrived,” said Audrey in a mock doomed voice. And the women cracked up because they couldn’t in fact give a single concrete reason.

Eventually, a breakthrough was made and the volunteers listed several reasons. These include building self esteem and inspiring students to work hard and think of their futures.

Performances are not yet scheduled but are due to air before the end of the summer.


****
International:
Counterparts Conference, Celebration of Niegerien/American Cooperation
February 7, 2010
By Audrey

HAMDALLAYE-- A delegation of counterparts from each volunteers’ village arrived this week to the training site in Hamdallaye. They participated in a two day co-training event with the volunteers.

Volunteers were told to use their first four months in village choosing a primary Nigerien counterpart for working together on future projects. This person needs to demonstrate above all that they have plenty of effort, respect in the community and similar project interests as the volunteer.

Audrey chose her town’s English teacher, Ali, who entered the training site Sunday evening.

Peace Corps introduced the counterparts to Peace Corps philosophy. This was a particularly important session since people of the developing world are used to the more traditional NGO system of appearing in a community, installing new infrastructure or giving food aid or presenting information, and then leaving.

Peace Corps volunteers, explained the training staff, come to live long term in a community and help those interested members to help themselves. They discouraged the idea of Peace Corps volunteers’ ability to fund large expensive projects. The staff also encouraged counterparts to help other key players in the community to understand this different system.

Counterparts also were introduced to PACA, a community-wide priority rating tool which is widely touted by aid program developers but has been met with skepticism among PCVs.

With the volunteers, counterparts learned about project design and management to be able to better organize and implement their own projects.

Asked if he had gotten good response from the counterparts about the sessions, Tondi, the Peace Corps training manager, said, “They complained about the per diems, as usual. That’s mostly what they talked to me about.”

The sense on campus, however, was one of fun and enthusiasm. Ali said, “I’ve learned a lot, it’s been a good conference.”


****
Travel:
Nearly 21st Century Oasis in the Sahel
February 14, 2010
By Audrey

NIAMEY-- Come to Niger’s bustle capital from the rural village post and you will travel across centuries. From its two lane streets, to towering three story buildings and all the multitude of material goods stuffed in, the big city is an oasis evoking a nearly 21st century feel in a 19th century country.

The existence of ice cream, internet and French pastries invariably impresses visitors to Niamey who are also stunned by the presence of real food and real restaurants at their disposal.

A favorite attraction, the Musee of Niamey garners much attention as the only formal institution in the city. Be sure to find the lion cages at feeding time and witness a spectacular and perilous feeding frenzy.

Fashion is a booming industry in Niamey. In the celebrated ‘dead-mans’ sections common throughout Niger you’ll find acres of torn and stained discarded clothes from the developed world, what is a hipster’s true paradise.

If you have the right connections you can contact a world famous fashion designer named Koti. This little boutique in her residence is not to be missed, and if you have the time to wait, she will tailor a fashion forward ensemble worthy of Parisian runways.

This sahalien oasis in a land of donkey carts and hand pounded millet will leave you refreshed but ultimately satiated by its riches and glitz and ready to return to the bush.


****
Sports:
Volleyball Showcases Competitive Spirit, Solidarity among PCVs
By Sean
February 13, 2010

HAMDALLAYE-- It was how she introduced herself to us a few hours after arriving in Niger by letting out a primal scream into the July night and booting the volleyball clear across the training site. Not exactly a typical return of serve, and it lost her team a point, but it established Katy’s reputation as a fierce competitive spirit -- wild and unchained.

During In-Service Training six months later, that spirit drove Katy to make sure all of us who were at least somewhat willing showed up to the volleyball court at around 5 p.m. every afternoon. It created a veritable tidal wave of enthusiasm for the game about which some of us were only lukewarm.

We couldn’t resist what seemed like a gravitational force pulling us to the daily match. It allowed new standouts to emerge, like Ashle, Cindy, Katelyn, Robyn and Sarah L-H, who took many by surprise with their serving acumen and quick reflexes. It gave Guinea evacuee Nick a chance to bond with his new stagemates, even if he kept those who were his opponents from winning in the process. It was even strong enough to get one only occasional player during Pre-Service Training to choose the game, even when that beautiful red-head was beckoning him to stay with her in what would surely be an empty infirmary with everyone else on the volleyball court.

It was that powerful.

The teams were divided up differently almost every day. Hausa vs. Zarma. Eastern U.S. vs. Western U.S. Short vs. Tall. Old vs. Young. Boys vs. Girls. When we ran out of ways to divide our group in two (it was decided Atheists vs, Believers was not a good idea), we just simply split ourselves up randomly and played. But some things were consistent every time. Jesse reminded the rest of us males that he is the one who can truly call himself an athlete. Alex played like he was at least six inches taller than his actual height, while Chris consistently used his dogo [height] to make the most of his 6-foot-6 frame. Will showed he was able to return the ball from anywhere on the court and Tom demonstrated that he could be the most dangerous server among the whole group. Of course, Sara could easily claim that distinction as well.

We were good, but as much as we improved over the three weeks, we couldn’t touch the Nigeriens. Tondi was flat out unstoppable, sometimes easing up out of kindness, but never hesitating to spike a ball past Will when he got mouthy. Ousmane was just as fierce, a weapon on the court that single-handedly carried his team to victory. He was, to borrow a phrase, cokeastic. Even those that showed up only occasionally left us PCVs dizzy, Mani with his rainbow serve and Bawa with his… well… I’m not exactly sure what it was that allowed Bawa to thrive, but his team won the only game he played, allowing him to retire undefeated.

And what about Katy, you ask? She was not the best, Moussa from Gaya insisted during the first game that included our counterparts. But Moussa was wrong, because in the showdown with the highest stakes of the entire three-week session, Katy brought her A-game and made sure her team came through with a victory. She and Brian made the friendly wager, selected their teams and played like their lives depended on it. Or at least their dignity, since the loser would have to wear every single item of clothing he or she owned at the same time the entire next day. Katy stood out more than any other player during that game, and not just for her grunts and trash talk. Her serve was never as sharp, her feet were never so quick, her hands never so steady. And even when Brian, who was also showing an impressive amount of skill with so much on the line, helped his team get ahead 14-10, Katy would not accept defeat, and her team stormed back for a 17-15 victory.

There will inevitably be a rematch during the Close of Service conference during the summer of 2011, a final judgment of sorts regarding our volleyball skills. Until then, you’ll find Katy on the court at the middle school in her village preparing, while the rest of us try not to forget too much of what we’ve learned.

****
Politics: source, http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/8537043.stm
Niger: A coup for democracy?

By Caspar Leighton
BBC News, Niamey


Most people in Niger's capital, Niamey, seem to regard the military coup as an opportunity not a disaster.
"We have had coups before, and usually not many people die, so for us the military coup is not so traumatic as it might be somewhere else," says Mohamed Bazoum, deputy president of the opposition PNDS Taraya party.


The last time Niger's military staged a coup was in 1999.
Then the putsch heralded a short transition before elections. Nigeriens hope this coup will lead towards elections as well.
"We're proud of what the soldiers have done and we expect them to manage a clean, honest transition, because the soldiers who have taken over are not eager and ambitious, they don't want power," said a man in Niamey's main market who did not want to be named.
'Have faith'
For most people, the advent of a military coup is the fault of the politicians, not the soldiers.
"It's regrettable that we have had a coup d'etat," said another man in the market. "But the politicians have failed us and so I am glad the army stepped in."


Many coups across West Africa have started out with soldiers promising a return to civilian rule and democracy. Things do not always go so smoothly.
But in Niger, most people think the army will stick to its word, including those in the government that was ousted.
"At this stage we have to have faith in what the army says and we think they are men of their word," says Tamboura Issoufou, the spokesman for the party of the deposed President Mamadou Tandja.
Mr Tandja's MNSD party may be allowed to take part in the transition and run in elections.
The opposition is adamant that Mr Tandja himself not only be barred, but tried for high treason.
Mr Bazoum has more forthright reasons for believing the army will return power to civilians.
"Niger cannot survive without international aid, and as long as there is a military government, the sanctions imposed during President Tandja's time will remain in place."
The extreme poverty of Niger has long been an important factor in its political landscape.
Crumbling tarmac
The country has had to rely on its uranium reserves for foreign revenue and has been very vulnerable to price fluctuations. Aid from the international community is essential.
In the past, unpaid salaries have led to tensions in society that have ended in coups.


Many in Niger think it was the international isolation caused by President Tandja's changing of the constitution to stay in power that posed the biggest threat to Niger's well-being.
Niger sits close to the bottom of the United Nations human development index and regularly faces food insecurity.
Being largely a desert nation, cultivating crops and raising livestock is a precarious business at the best of times.
At the end of January the government warned that 2.7 million people, or a fifth of the population, were facing food shortages because of poor rains.
There is no need to look for statistics to appreciate how poor Niger is.
When trucks and other vehicles cross the border into Niger from Benin, they feel the poverty straight away as the road deteriorates into potholes and falls away at the edges.
This road is the main artery from the capital Niamey down to the port of Cotonou in Benin, yet still the money has not been found to repair it.
The trucks crawl along at a snail's pace. Often hugely overloaded, they sometimes tip over as the heat-softened tarmac crumbles into the sand.
"Sometimes good things can come from coups," says Mr Bazoum.
The groups of beggars that wander around Niamey and the millions going hungry across the nation must be hoping the same thing.


****
Politics:
PCVs Weather Coup d’Etat Like Old Pros
By Audrey
February 18, 2010

ASHLE’S TOWN-- News of the Niger coup d’etat reached PCVs Audrey and Ashle Thursday afternoon by text message.

“Unconfirmed reports of gunfire in Niamey. PCVs on standfast,” the message read.

Standfast is the 1st action in Peace Corps’ Emergency Action Plan, followed by consolidation and evacuation. On standfast, PCVs must remain in the town they are in at the beginning of the emergency.

Audrey and Ashle went to school as normal to plan upcoming events with the teachers. They spent the evening talking with neighbors about the coup.

“Everyone seems pretty content with the coup,” said Audrey. “ A lot of Nigeriens knew that Tanja’s presidency had derailed democracy in Niger, and that a coup would be the only way to get it back on track. Now everyone is just waiting to see if this new military regime is serious about doing that.”

While the military Junta has not yet proven itself, early signs indicate that the reinstatement of a democratic government can be expected. The military has exempted itself from eligibility in future elections and has installed a non-military interim prime minister, one-time Canadian Embassy worker Mahamadou Dandah. The military has also allowed non-partisan governmental leaders to continue in their roles.

“The only thing that we were really worried about was the possibility of evacuation,” said Audrey. “As coups go, this was a really good one.”

Standfast was lifted the following Saturday, after it became clear that Niger would remain stable during this transition.


****
Kitten Missing for a Day
March 8, 2010
By Audrey

AUDREY’S VILLAGE-- Audrey woke up Monday morning, expecting Waka, a four month old kitten, to be perched on the mattress outside the mosquito net.

When the kitten did not appear throughout the day, Audrey became worried that the kitten was a goner.

But on Tuesday morning the cat came back. “I figured she’d found another irresistible latrine to explore” said Audrey, referring to an earlier incident when her cat fell into a latrine, “or that she’d become feline fricassee for some of my neighbors.”

PCVs cats have been known to be villagers’ hors d’oevres in Niger, especially when the cants have eaten a villager’s chicken.

But happily for all, the cat returned home, unharmed. Audrey’s conclusion, “I guess she just couldn’t stay away!”


****
*Note: this isn’t the article I wanted to send but I cant find that one. That article was about Niger finally requesting international food aid which Tanja wouldn’t do. I will send it if I get my hands on it again. This one is about the food shortage in general. People have said it’ll be hard for us sometimes to deal with this, so I’m a bit worried. Thought you should know about the real situation.
Aid Group: Severe Food Shortage Threatens Millions in West Africa

International: source, http://www1.voanews.com/english/news/africa/Severe-Food-Shortage-Threatens-Millions-West-Africa-.html
Anne Look | Dakar 18 March 2010
A malnourished child sits at a feeding center in Maradi, Niger (File)
Photo: AP/George Osodi

A malnourished child sits at a feeding center in Maradi, Niger (File)

Oxfam: Harvests down 34 percent in Chad, 26 percent in Niger compared to last year.

Oxfam says 10 million people across the Sahel region in West Africa, particularly in Niger and Chad, are facing severe food shortages.

Oxfam is urging developed countries to take rapid action in the face of what it called an "unfolding disaster" in the Sahel, namely severe food shortages in coming months caused by irregular rains in 2009.

The international aid agency warned that eight million people are at risk in Niger and two million in Chad. Oxfam said the looming food shortage also threatens a substantial number of people in Mali, as well as those in parts of Burkina Faso and Nigeria.

Africa's SahelAfrica's Sahel

Oxfam's humanitarian coordinator for West Africa, Phillipe Conraud, recently visited some of the most at-risk regions in Niger, Chad and Mali.

Conraud says the most affected have been the farmers and herders in rural areas, who are running out of places to graze their animals. He says grains are a staple of peoples' diets, but poor harvests this past year in countries like Niger have led to a grain shortage and subsequent rising prices. He says most of the people threatened by the potential food crisis are already extremely poor and will not be able to afford enough food in coming months.

Oxfam said harvests in Chad have fallen by 34 percent compared to last year and those in Niger have fallen by 26 percent. Oxfam said that in some regions of Niger, there were no harvests at all.

Rains are not expected again until June, and Oxfam says food prices will continue to climb until the next harvest in September without international assistance.

In Niger, Oxfam is urging donors to respond to the government's request for international assistance and head off a repeat of a devastating 2005 food crisis in Niger. Oxfam says delays in responding to that crisis needlessly cost lives.

Oxfam says Niger has requested $123 million in food aid. This request represents a change in the impoverished West African country.

Niger's former president, Mamadou Tandja, refused to address risks of food crisis during his more than 10 years in office. Tandja was ousted by a military coup last month.

Oxfam and its national and local partners have already begun emergency relief work in the most vulnerable regions in Niger and Chad.

Oxfam's Conraud says in the months ahead they will be helping rural inhabitants feed their animals and keep their livestock alive until the next rains. He says they are also working on ways to get food to the people who already can not afford to feed their families.

Conraud said they would be working with urban residents who will also have trouble finding affordable food in the coming weeks and months.


****
PCV Spends Inordinate Amount of Time Out of Village
February 22, 2010
By Audrey

AUDREY’S VILLAGE-- PCV Audrey has spent the previous two weeks making a tour of the Zinder region in an effort to spur her town to action on finishing her house.

After completing IST, Fati returned home to her village Thursday February 18th to an unfinished house which also still contained in one room the previous occupant‘s things. The village’s mayor and Peace Corps staff toured the new, though incomplete, quarters and then were shown temporary housing which did not meet safety standards.

Audrey then decided to spend a few days in Magaria helping PCV Ashle on projects. When Audrey was informed of the completion of her home, she returned once more to the village, finding that although the house was now habitable, the work was, in fact, still incomplete.

Audrey stayed a few days in village, starting projects, and left for friend Kira’s town. A map of Africa and of Niger were painted and delicious food was prepared over the four days Audrey spent in this town.

“I was so impressed,” said Audrey. “There was internet and a working shower. And Kira had an oven in her house. Plus I got to see the [culture center] when they were doing tae kwan do lessons! I want to do an exchange with my town’s kids and these kids now.”

On her way back to post, Audrey was informed that her house was still not done. She therefore decided to travel to friend SLH’s town in hopes of doing a radio show.

The two PCVs were unable to do radio, but introduced the concept of a jigsaw puzzle to the kids of SLH’s neighborhood.

Audrey finally arrived back at post, to a house still not finished or moved out of. However, with so many projects pressing to be started, and with the Peace Corps admin breathing down her back, there was nothing to do but to stay at post and function with an in-ideal housing situation.

“I guess this is just one of those frustrating things in Niger that we have to learn how to handle,” said Audrey.


****
Home and Garden:
Trend Watch: Mud Cooking Gaining Ground
March 14, 2010
By Audrey

ZINDER-- Cook stoves are making an entrance in Peace Corps Volunteers’ collections of household necessities. And just in time for the hungry season crunch, say Peace Corps directors.

PCVs recently learned how to make a better cook stove which burns significantly less wood. In this fragile, water-stressed ecosystem that is a literal life-saving innovation. And best of all, these fashionable new mud-based cook stoves are cheap for villagers on a tight budget, costing less than 50 cents to make.

All over the Zinder region now PCVs are constructing these cook stoves in their homes and interested neighbors’ homes. They hope the trend catches on.


****
Students Meet for English Club
Monday, March 8th
By Audrey

AUDREY‘S VILLAGE-- Approximately 30 students from freshmen and sophomore level classes met Monday afternoon at the CEG (middle school) under the supervision of PCV Audrey and English teacher Ali.

Students played a vocabulary matching game and discussed longer-term activities for the school year. Audrey suggested several project ideas and asked for ideas from the students.

“Please,” said one student with English speaking effort, “We are not strong in English and we don’t have much books. We would like that you to bring us books.”

A perfect opportunity for Audrey, who had been waiting to find a way to rope her community into helping her with a book drive. She proposed a fundraising project for the club while she would find outside sources to compliment their efforts. The students readily agreed.

Peace Corps offers a few sources of funding and for a project like creating a library a PCV normally turns to the Peace Corp Partnership Program, PCPP. This is a lengthy application process which results in the online posting of the PCV’s project at: www.http://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=resources.donors. Once online, visitors to the website can make tax deductible donations.

Other projects that showed promise are creating skits to be performed to parents and the community and organizing debates.

Students then received homework entitled “My Dreams for the Future” to be written in whatever language they can manage, but containing at least 2-3 paragraphs. They then gave names of those who will run for president, vice president and secretary.

Audrey was feeling exhilarated after the first meeting. “Many of the students seemed so engaged and it ran relatively smoothly.” She added, “And I really made the right choice in bringing Ali to IST. He was really helping me, even though I can see he wouldn’t feel like he could do this on his own.”

Due to Hausa language training and team meeting, Audrey will miss the next English Club. “I’m really sad I’ll miss the elections. I hope everything runs as smoothly next week as this, but I can’t wait to get back to read [the students’] homework assignments!”