Friday, December 25, 2009

Zermou pics

Here are some pics of our Zermou project and the promised crazy goat video. We learned later that that is the weird thing that goats do for mating, so our kid must have been going through puberty...
The map making process is all out of order but you can figure it out. The stuff we're drinking from a bowl is Kunu, a millet drink. There was a temporary river (dam was released) we had to cross thru on our way there and back every day (it had started the day before we got there and dried up a few days after we left!). we saw a camel on one of our walks that had an arrow pointing to its leg so we took a pic! (I wonder what was so special about the leg as to be pointed out?) And after a long day and long hot walk sean is so tired he doesn't care that his backpack fell on him.






























Tuesday, December 22, 2009

all my letters home..#5,6and7

Email 7
Winter Holiday greetings to all,
Happy Hanukkah, Feliz Navidas, Salutations on the Solstice, Kwanza Greetings and Happy Festivus. Also happy Dictator Day, since this is Tanja’s first day as dictator of Niger.
I am in town for Christmas which we celebrate together as a team by baking cookies, secret santa-ing and doing what Team Fat* does best, gorging ourselves on giant feasts. (*have I explained that Team Zinder is nicknamed Team Fat because we all cook like kitchen gods and make big meals when we get together? Well there it is.)
This last month, the biggest adventure I had was my trip to Zermou. And it really was a big adventure. As I mentioned in my last email, Zermou is the town of my friend from my training group, Sarah Lyon-Hill. She inherited a ‘World Map Project’ from her closest neighbor, Jill, who COSed and returned home last month and couldn’t paint the map in time. A world map project is something that a lot of PCVs do if their towns lack maps in their schools. I probably wont paint a map in my town because we have maps at the middle school and I think the elementaries have some as well. I will be doing a mural at the health clinic hopefully next month with my friends from training. Since Jill’s village-Bankareto-, was so small and rather poor, I think that is why she decided to do this project.
A quick, precious, side story; Alex and Sean met me in Zinder the day before we headed out to Zermou and we had a chance to do some errands in town. We were grocery shopping and Alex found thyme (dried herbs are rare to find in Zinder, we have to buy them in Niamey and bring them out with us) but there was no price labeled. He inquired about the price and they wouldn’t give him a quote ‘because it was a new product and they hadn’t done the pricing on it yet’. That is the broken Niger logic for you. They would have sold it to him probably, but he didn’t feel like negotiating. Anyway, that was just far, far too beautifully set up for me to pass up remarking to their disgust, “well now we know, thyme is priceless in Niger”. True story 100%.
Alex, Sean and I left together the next morning for Zermou. The road to Zermou is all deep sand, like sand dunes deep sand, with a bit of road here and there that is harder-packed sand. As such , regular van bush taxis have trouble getting there and the bush taxis out to Zermou are all open back trucks, the shape of and a little larger than say a regular Ford-ish type truck in America. There are some bush taxis that go out there that are massive big trucks, like Ford on steroids, but not quite so disgusting as monster truck types. Zermou is closer to Zinder than Bande and almost straight north, like Bande is straight south, but the road makes Zermou as long a trip as Bande.
The way is pretty scenery, but I really enjoyed it more on the way back because on the way there my spine was being hacked in two, for half the way. How one rides this kind of bush taxi is: one climbs on top of a bunch of huge sacks of stuff, say rice, and tries to get a good spot. We had been told, but didn’t fully understand that the best spot, besides inside the cabin, is on top of the cabin. I thought I had gotten a cozy spot behind the cabin and Alex and Sean were, perhaps not without some inkling of concern, moved to the side of the truck, legs hanging off. That ride was good in the sense that it made me appreciate Sarah’s kokari -willpower or effort or general bad-assness- for living in such a bush village. It was not good in that we were in extreme discomfort or fear of falling off the whole time. I had my butt scooted further and further under a bar because of the crowding and slipperiness of the bags, hence my spine cracking comment. Eventually I just stood up and tried to duck the thorny tree branches occasionally whizzing by. That worked well and I was a lot more comfortable except that the trees did get me full on in the face once. We let off some people a little while later and then I got room to sit down facing forward and watching the scenery. Finally it felt like a great theme park adventure ride, for me at least. On the way back, like I said, we sat on top of our bags on top of the cabin and it was adventuresome and pleasant and as comfortable as a bush taxi ride in Niger ever is except for the few errant thorn branches. Eventually I will have pictures of this bush taxi and you will see that you would have never ever believed people actually ride in the way that they are piled up on top of the truck like they are unless I had told you that that‘s how it is.
When we arrived in Zermou, we randomly met a guy who is a friend of Sarah’s and he (of course) knew right away where we wanted to go and took us to her house. Her house is much smaller than mine and made of mud brick, but it is so adorably and comfortably decorated, I am immensely jealous of her interior design skills. She has a dog, Lela, that she also inherited from Jill. Lela is sweet and has wonky legs. Jill rescued her as a puppy in the Zermou taxi station in Zinder from kids who were beating her. After resting a bit we went out and met the people Sarah works with; her mayor, the lady at the radio station, etc. and we went to her market to buy some things for dinner. I saw prepared crickets in the market so a bought the smallest amount that I could and ate one. Lela’s dog got the rest of them. I am pretty sure I told you about my cricket in Magaria that wasn’t cooked and that I would be on the lookout for a proper cricket to give them a fair shake, since Cindy told me they are pretty good. Well I really should learn to think the opposite of everything Cindy says. This one also tasted like grass and felt like cricket just saltier and a little easier to eat; so I wont be trying them anymore. We walked over to Jill’s old town that evening to see the map space and to mark out the grid. The walk is about 20 or 30 minutes and some of it in deep sand is hard but good exercise and fun to do with friends. A few days before we got there, a big river had formed next to Zermou because they had released a dam several miles away. There wasn’t any way to cross it except to wade through almost up to the knees with all the villagers around laughing at the americans walking through nasty, cold water.
Saturday, we got up and, after breakfast, walked over to Bankareto to draw the map with chalk and start painting. We brought lunch and listened to Sean and Sarah’s Ipods and didn’t leave until the late afternoon. They discovered that I hate Simon and Garfunkle and made me listen to a whole album. We got about halfway done that day. When we got back, the others were talking about Sarah’s ‘rock’ which I had obliviously never heard them talking of before. So, spontaneously, we decided to trek out there and see it. It was a huge outcropping of granite the size of a hill jutting up from the sand. It was really pretty and we were there for most of the sunset. The others were lamenting not bringing their cameras and I jokingly suggested we go back for them and spend the night out here to take pictures of the dawn. They took to that idea though and thought we should do it the next day, though it’s really cold at night now and I thought I would freeze. We ended up not doing it the next night because of an interruption, but we are talking about making another trip out there when Niger warms up a bit(I can‘t believe I can say that and be serious!). It was really pretty out in the middle of the desert, on top of a huge rock, looking at the setting sun, and I think it would be great fun if we get to do it.
The next day, before we trekked back out to the map, we heard the little baby goats right outside Sarahs house making exceptionally unusual noises. When we went out, we saw this baby goat jabbing another baby goat while making the silliest noise we have yet heard in Niger. It was reminiscent of a mom doing that ‘coochy coochy coo’ thing and wiggling her nose in a baby’s face, -except for a very strong element of random absurdness. We watched this happen for five minutes or so and took a video of it which will one day be on you tube and I will send y‘all the link. We think it should go viral and become the next ‘hamster eating popcorn’, it is that bizarre and hilarious.
Finally, we made it to the map and spent most of the day finishing it, complete with sea monster in the south pacific and baby dragon in the heavens. Sarah only has to glaze and label all (or most..) of the countries. The PCVs we talked to seemed surprised that we got our project done so fast. We have kokari, what can I say? We were visited that day by Jill’s other dog, Leo, who was acting spastic and then, to poor Sarah’s horror, followed us all the way to Sarah’s house, terrorizing the geese and goats of Zermou all the way. Sarah kept telling all the villagers she passed that it was not her dog. Finally, this crazy wild dog was jumping up onto the very high wall to sarah’s concession and would have come in if we weren’t yelling it back to the other side each time he jumped up. So Sarah and Sean decided to walk Leo back to Bankareto while Alex and I cooked. When they got back we had banana pancakes and popcorn and watched my new Star Trek dvd (thanks josh!) because we were too exhausted to go up to the rock.
We left the next morning and spent Monday night in Zinder. It was a thoroughly fulfilling trip. I really felt like I was an actual PCV for the first time. I don’t know what it was, actually doing work, seeing another PCV doing her stuff in her own town, adventuring out on the crazy bush taxi, maybe just the magic of Zermou.
The only sad part of the trip was talking a lot about the changes that had happened during and since the last time we saw each other, consolidation. We are very sad about loosing the new training group to Madagascar and the COSers, who are such great people and who left this month. I have lost 3 of 4 of the most promising counterparts (Nigeriens who do our projects with us) in my town this month, they all left for work elsewhere. Also, a lot of our training group (one third has now gone home) has elected to take interrupted service which was offered to us due to the security scare. We have very conflicted feelings about their decisions, but ultimately are sad to see them go and wish them well. We are really worried about not getting a new CYE/MCD group in July, though it isn’t likely that we wouldn’t get one if we are still here. The specter of evacuation is still hanging over a lot of us, although we are all doing better, feeling more confident that things have calmed down and that we‘ll be staying. We had a visit from Peace Corps to assure us all individually about us staying and about plans to start augmenting the program again and to talk over the specifics of the security thing(for example, evidently Americans weren‘t being specifically targeted as was thought). Now, after having this quintessential Peace Corps experience, I really don’t want a repeat of November. We have such a good team and we have so much to do as individuals and as a team. It feels like Niger is a bit swiss cheesy, not empty but full of holes. Madam Country Director, Mary Abrams, please send Zinder some great new teammates!
It was also very good to see Sarah so happy and at home in her town. It’s due I’m sure largely to her warm personality and hard work but she chalked it up to the genius of the MCD director. (She and Sean are MCD- municipal and community development and Alex and I are CYE-community and youth education). The MCD director is Oussman and he is a fun guy. Like all Nigeriens, no matter how well they can speak English, they have the funniest expressions. My favorite of Oussman’s is his coinage “coke-astic”. He says this because he hates Fanta (who can blame him?) and prefers coke, therefore, he cannot say fanta-stic, because Fanta is not fantastic, so he says cokastic.
Well I’ll leave you with that little nugget of silliness. Next time I write, in sha allah, I’ll be heading off to IST-in service training-(finally!).
Fare thee well, ~aj

Email 6

Dear folks,
I have just swung up to my friend Sarah L-H’s town, Zermou, for the weekend as 3 of us from my training group came to help her with a world map painting project that she inherited from her neighbor PCV who returned home this month and couldn’t finish before she left. I got time to shoot off an update for all of you because I am staying the night in Zinder- it’s a long trip that I could do in one day but feel much better splitting it up. Just wait till you see the picture of the bush taxi that we took to and from Zermou to Zinder, it‘s ridiculous and you wont believe I rode for 2 hours on it. Anyway, I will write up an thorough report on the trip for the Christmas letter, because it was such a good weekend and deserves pages in it’s recounting. PS what I would like from *everybody* for Christmas is an update on your lives/ America/ penguins, whatever you want to talk about. I’m serious, it sucks having 3ish hours of internet a month and loosing track of everyone’s lives back home. Send it email, snail mail, carrier pigeon, pterodactyl, whatever floats your boat.
Two days after Thanksgiving in America, we had Tabaski here in Niger. Tabaski is a Muslim holiday that celebrates the Old Testament Story of Abrahim and Issac. On Saturday, I got up and sat with some neighbors who took me to see the horse and camel races. I am really sad to say that I forgot my camera, but maybe one of my friends will have taken pictures of their town’s celebrations. I went to my Sarki’s house (the chief of the district) to bring a small gift of cookies and I had lunch with his daughters and took pictures of the whole family which I want to give to them as Christmas presents.
After that I cooked dates and brought them over to my neighbors. I watched them carve up the entrails of a goat that had been slaughtered that morning and people sent their kids around with platters of boiled pieces of meat to all the neighbors and I munched on un-identified goat morsels the whole day. The next morning I sat and watched my neighbor carve up the rest of the goat. They had told me that they would be eating the head that morning, and thankfully I missed that part. I saw some various male member of the family salting hides in a hut and I took a pic of him. Maybe that will make it onto the blog eventually. I watched the daughters cooking the meet and when it was done they gave me some pieces that I took back to my house and made some, maybe, pasta dish with. Watching a goat being carved was definitely a new experience that thoroughly weirded me out and enthralled me. I always wondered how the bowls were handled. Well in Niger, they pick them up, slice them open with the same knife used for everything else, scrape out (most of) the poop and cut them into little pieces which go, along with everything else, into the pot! I choose to believe that I consumed no goat poop this Tabaski, even if that’s a fairytale.
I knew before I came that one of the biggest (time-wise) parts of being a PCV is reading more than you ever have before in your life. I am a really slow reader and so finishing the 14 books that I have read since the plane touched down here is a real accomplishment for me. So I thought, since it’s nearly the end of the year and I probably wont finish another book before my Christmas trip to Zinder, I’d celebrate by including a book report in this email on what I have been spending large portions of my time on here.
My 14 books read in Niger:
1. Half the Sky, Kristof and Wudunn. This is about women and developing nations. It was really written more for people like you, sitting at home in america, to inspire you to travel abroad to these countries or at least support any of various organizations which help women economically, medically or educationally. Thus, it was a little frustrating to read as a PCV sitting in a region that was mentioned specifically in this book and not getting as many ideas or as much actionable knowledge as I was hoping for. That said, it is a great book which I will recommend to people, along with another good book about African development ‘Africa Doesn’t Matter’ by Giles Bolton, for years to come (particularly in the holiday season). And I’ll especially make a little nudge toward checking out those many good organizations mentioned in Half the Sky during your holiday tax write-off, check writing sessions.
2. The Silmarillion, by Tolkien- had started years ago but brought it so that I could finally finish it and I did!
3. V for Vandetta, Persepolis and PersepolisII. These are 3 graphic novels, the first 2 of which have been made into movies. I haven’t seen Persepolis yet (anybody good with pirating- wanna send me a copy?). These are really great books, if you want to read a graphic novel.
4. And Then There Were None, and Mystery on the Blue Train, Agatha Christie. This keeps my PBS Masterpiece Mystery cravings subdued, but not totally quenched. Oh PBS.
5. 3 books that are too bad to be named, but count none-the-less because they are books with pages, every last one of which I read.
6.Lost in a Good Book, Jasper Fforde. This is number 3 or 4 in a series, and I shouldn’t judge it when I havent read the series in the proper order, but it wasn’t quite my cup of tea. A good romp, but not as satisfying as some of these other books. The heroin is a literary detective who jumps in and out of books and sorts out all sorts of messes, literary and earthly. This one made me think I need to find a copy of Great Expectations so that I can meet Ms. Havisham for myself, which is something, considering I’ve never been inclined to read a Dickens book before.
7. Northanger Abbey (with Lady Susan, The Watsons, and Sanditon), Jane Austen. I think the Great Tragedy of my life is that the greatest character I have ever met belongs to an unfinished novel. Maybe someday a genius will channel Jane Austen and finish the Watsons so I can read all of Emma Watson’s story and not be left hanging at a few fleeting mentions of Mr. Howard and my heroin in a precarious financial situation. It makes me wish I could go exploring in Fforde’s ‘well of lost plots‘.
8. Guns, Germs and Steel, Jared Diamond. This is a popular history book that won the Pulitzer prize. I don’t really understand what it takes to win a Pulitzer, since this, tho an interesting book, wasn’t earth shattering and was poorly and repetitively written. It’s definitely worth a skim tho; the ideas are all interesting-the first time you read them, anyway, and if you don’t mind Diamond not fleshing out some claims.
9. West with the Night, Beryl Markham. I heard this was an interesting book (on NPR? That’s a safe assumption considering NPR was my source of 90% of my knowledge until I came here). But I can’t help thinking that I wouldn’t have liked this lady. I was telling someone that I had started this book and they mentioned that there was another bio written called ‘east with the dawn’ or something like that. Supposedly, it gives a completely different picture than the one Beryl paints, which is romantic and adventurous and no one connected to her has any personality flaws. It seems like an interesting contrast to read the two together, I might pick up the other sometime. Even though this book was a bit trite at times it was really fun to read, like “Half the Sky”, while on the same continent as the setting of the book.

letter 5
Update wed 25 nov
Yesterday we got word that consolidation is lifted and we can go back to our villages starting today. I am going out tomorrow on our sub-region shuttle. We have new rules to follow regarding travel which will make work harder in some respects, but they are manageable. We are all glad it’s over and are trying to get back into the village living mindset after a week and a half of american time. But today we got a text that the new training group which was going to be sworn in and installed in January is now cancelled and the PCTs are being given the choice of Early Termination or relocating to Madagascar! (which most of you will know was my original country invitation, ironically). We don’t feel like this is over at all now. More consolidation, more up in the air-ness and roller coaster emotions and more lack of information. That’s what I think I’ll be dealing with this month. ‘In Sha Allah’ I’m wrong and will enjoy a super boring, uneventful December.
At any rate and in the spirit of the season, truly, I am thankful I have such a great team that is so good at supporting one another through this, because none of the teams are having as easy a time with this as mine in Zinder. I am grateful that I had a wonderful and memorable thanksgiving (early), and a week of hanging out with these people (and we didn’t end up killing each other-30 people in 1 small house!). I am grateful that for now it looks like I will have a chance to fill out my service here. I’m grateful to all of you back home who have shared encouragement with me. Happy thanksgiving and eat lots of turkey for me. I’ll be back online just before Christmas.
Yours truly,
~aj

all my letters home..#3 and 4

Letter 4
Dear folks,
So we aren’t allowed to blog about our status right now, but private email seems to be okay. Therefore, I’ll let you know about what is going on in Niger at the moment, at least as far as Americans are concerned. Last Saturday night I got back to Bande from a trip into Zinder only to be texted the next morning that I had to turn around because we were being ‘consolidated’. Consolidation means that we are all brought together in the country, for us in Niger that means we go to our regional capitols to the hostels. They use consolidation only if they are worried about safety in our villages throughout the country or if they want communication to be very easy or if they are strongly considering evacuation.
The reason they have consolidated us is that there was an attempted kidnapping of some american embassy workers in a region called Tauha. The kidnappers mistakenly got 2 Canadians who were able to talk themselves out of the situation when they realized the mistake -I don’t know many details. Tauha is north and very far west of Zinder and is close to the line that we haven’t been allowed to cross for a while (since before I got here). Normally when things like this happen, we are put on ‘stand-fast’ which means we aren’t allowed to travel out of our villages. They make us do that a lot, but evidently they haven’t consolidated in Niger for 3 or 4 years. This time, I heard, the kidnappers were specifically targeting Americans and had been asking about our locations. That is why our villages, which are usually much safer than the bigger cities (not that all of Niger isn’t pretty safe already-compared to, say, America), are possibly less safe at the moment. Usually even for kidnappings, Americans are not at risk as much as, for example, Germans because our government doesn’t pay ransoms and doesn’t allow families to. And if americans are killed (I heard and have decided to believe for comfort’s sake) the marines are sent in after the kidnappers. So I would like to know what is up with the change in kidnappers’ strategy and if it is really true.
Even after having my invitation to PC-Madagascar last year and then watching the blogs as the PCVs were consolidated, sent back to post, consolidated again and finally evacuated, I still can’t believe we will be sent back home. Niger has never been evacuated, but also Americans have never been threatened specifically before, that I hear. Nobody knows what will happen right now, and -I am voicing the frustration I read about and didn’t understand in the Madagascar blogs- it’s starting to get annoying. The group that is COSing (finishing up) had about 2 more weeks to go and were going to be able to spend Tabaski, the most important holiday in Niger, with their villages one last time. Now, we have heard they will probably start being sent home as soon as possible and wont be able to go back to their villages to say goodbye. We are really sad to see them go sooner than intended.
In Zinder, we are allowed to go out with buddies, so cabin fever is kept to a minimum so far-Connie, which is just south of Tauha, was being kept in quarantine and now we‘ve heard they will shut down the connie region and relocate the people there! But we all kind of want to go back to villages now cuz we feel like we‘ve just been here too long. We had a wonderful thankgiving here on Monday. We weren’t having turkey because it is expensive here and I complained a lot about that before. But when we finally started gorging ourselves, I ended up not really missing it much. We had apple and pumpkin pies, a roast, stuffing, chicken, green bean cassarole, banana bread, salad, mashed potatoes etc and I made a fruit salad and 2 loaves of honey bread which vanished before dinner even started. During dinner we went around and said something we are thankful for, which was thoughtful and humorous and sometimes a little teary for a few ppl. It was very interesting to have a moment of looking around and feeling like you can clearly see that this is your new family for 2 years and how well you feel like you can know them at that moment. nice and homey like thanksgiving should be. there were even 2 moms and an aunt randomly visiting who talked about how it’s nice for family in the states to know how we have this makeshift but strong family here. Then we all got drunk and danced till 3 in the morning.
Speaking of eating, I thought I would tell you about my culinary adventures so far. I heard from a friend that they eat fried locusts here and that they taste like potato chips so after I heard that, it was my mission to find and manage to eat a fried locust. I didn’t see them ever in my town but when I was in the market in Magaria, saw a big basket of locusts and said, yes I am going to do this now. So I told the guy I only wanted to buy a little bit because I just wanted to try the thing and he gave me a bug to try. I was quite a spectacle in the market, screwing up the courage to stick a bug in my mouth but I did it and I ate the whole thing. But I think it was not fried yet but only dried because it was kind of a yucky texture and it tasted like grass and not like a potato chip at all. So a properly fried locust, unfortunately, is still on my list of things to try in Niger. I also had kosai (fried bean flour batter) with honey a few times and it made me think of when I was a little kid eating chicken McNuggets with honey. We like to try to find substitutes for nostalgic American food here. I suppose when I get back to the states and miss Niger, I’ll go get morning star chicken nuggets with honey and pretend its Kosai.
One thing I saw made in training that I was so excited to try on my own was making bush cheese. For this you need dried milk, water and vinegar. If it doesn’t sound really amazing, you are unfortunately, for the most part, right. It tasted like those re-hydrated scrambled eggs that I ate in elementary school sometimes, only a bit less eggy. I’ve asked a lot of people here if they remember that and it seems to be just me who ever had re-hydrated scrambled eggs as a child. Anyway, when you need cheese, it’s an option. Powdered milk does make a really good alfredo sauce for pasta. I am getting to be a really good bush cook when it comes to creamy stuff.
A friend here, Sarah, and I were talking about the merits of various illnesses -having giardia (a bacteria we all come to know well) versus amoebas. When I had amoebas my stomach felt a lot more icky than when I’ve had various bacterias, and giardia gives you sulfur burps. So my miserly and lazy reaction was that giardia is infinitely better because you get to have a taste like you ate eggs that morning without having had to bother with buying and cooking them. So there you go, if you ever have to have stomach problems, try to get giardia and not amoebas.
Send me questions you want to know about Niger! Cheers, ~aj

Letter home 3.

The Dear Audrey Column
These questions date from before swear-in when I was living in Hamdallye, but for some of them I’ll apply to Bande, my post, as well.
Gaye S
How far is your village from the capitol?
Hamdy, our training site for Pre-Service Training and again for In-Service Training, was about 2 hours by bush taxi or bus and about an hour by PC vehicle away from Niamey the capitol. My town Bande is in Zinder Reagion. Its about an hour-hour and a half away from the capitol of the region and former capitol of Niger, Zinder(ville). Zinder to Niamey is a grueling 13-17 hour bus ride. On our way here for ‘live-in’ the bus driver was some mad speedster and all the PCVs were impressed with our evidently record time of 12 hours 20 mins. I will be avoiding trips to Niamey.

How long will you stay/ will you get reassigned regularly?
Bande is my town until I leave. I could get reassigned to Zinder(ville) in a year (or 2 years if I were to extend) if I request and am granted that, but so far I like Bande, and altho it’s only been a month, I can see enough work here to keep me happy for 2 years.

Is Zarma a tribe or a language?
Zarma is both a tribe and a language. Niger has many different ethnic groups; without looking up in my culture manual, I think there are at least 7 or 8. The majority ethnic group is Hausa which has a large population in Nigeria as well. The next biggest is Zarma. Hausas and Zarmas live exclusively in the south in the Sahel region because their traditional culture is a farming one --Hausas in the east mostly and Zarmas in the west. In Agadez, which is the large sahara region in the north, the Tuaregs live, mostly in the western area where the Air Mountains are. They are hearders as are the Foulans who are scattered around and there are many in Zinder and around my town. I love the foulani style of make-up, scarification, hair and dress. Its really really exotic, and they all ride camels which I cant stop staring at. Someday I’ll get some pics to y’all but for now google-pics it.

Does PC provide you with fiber?
I think I have seen Metamucil or something in the med cabinets, but my parents sent me some yummy chewable tablets that I’m trying not to eat like candy (lower standards folks, lower standards) lest I have the opposite problem of Mr. D.

Ilene G
Did you fly to Niamey directly from the US?
No. Most flights go through Paris as did ours. My flight was Philly (for orientation) to Paris to Niamey. The flights were awful and I got a fever.

Is Niamey a modern city?
Let me put it this way. There are sit down toilets, lovely grass in front of the bank and good pain au chocolats. But Niamey is the last capitol in Africa to allow herding through its streets and I’ve seen people riding donkey cartes while motorcycles are zipping by, I’ve tried not to see dudes using the restroom on the median, and even the PC vehicle I’m riding in has decided the faster root will be through oncoming traffic on the other side of the raised median.

Is Hamdallye a village or a city?
Hamdallye was a village of about 5-700 people I think? I’m not the best with numbers, but I think that’s right. Bande is about 3 times its size at about 1500. Also regarding numbers, officials here don’t even know quite frankly, not everyone registers properly. That becomes a problem when they want to send their kid to school whom they hadn’t gotten a birth certificate for.

What transportation and living quarters do you have?
Bush taxis! Bush taxis are private vehicles that go from village to village. We also have a PC shuttle once a month on a day and to locations of our choosing. I have a bike from PC which I am using to go into Magaria once a week (40k round trip). Magaria is my market town and is a pretty big city for Niger. There, I can buy luxuries like canned tuna, a soccer ball, a cooking pot and rat poison. I also get the luxury of talking to my PC friends in *English*!
My accommodations are very nice for PC and for Niger. Sarcasm aside, it is probably bigger than anything I will live in for the next 30 years. There are three rooms in back which I’m not currently using, nor do I need to use really. There is one long room in front and then a front porch. It is all concrete with a metal roof and a drop ceiling-very unusual for Bande. My bed is outside under the porch because it’s been hot till recently and the dudes haven’t come to install my *ceiling fans!* yet. I have a mat -soon to buy another, two chairs, a book shelf, buckets for washing cloths or carrying water, two tables for kitchen stuff, a table top gas stove and a trunk. I also have a Karhe which is a big, ceramic vessel for storing water and keeping it really cool. I filter my water with my big water filter, even tho my supervisor in Bande looked practically hurt when I told him that I did that, because Bande- no country bumpkin town- filters its water! I have a pump in the yard and until recently I had corn growing all over my yard. My land lady and I harvested a few days ago, finally. I planted my own garden my first week here so I hope I start seeing sprouts soon. There is a latrine across the yard and a separate room for bucket baths, but I don’t use it because I take mine in a big plastic basin in my house. I always feel like I have a very modest amount of things, filling up only a trunk and a bookshelf and the furniture filling only about 15x7 feet, but everyone who comes over seems super curious about what the American has in her house. It’s something that’s hard to get used to even if I get it intellectually.

Kat M
Do you like it so far/ what have you been doing?
I do like it so far and I have not been doing all that much. I go out and walk about town, buy tomatoes and onions in the market, greet, greet, greet, sit in my house and read a book or the Hausa manual or I sit with a neighbors family, I cook and sweep and various other tiny activities that wouldn’t even be worth mentioning in America. I go to the school now and I’ve taught beginning English a few periods and I am becoming the towns official portrait artist since the fateful day I took out my sketchbook and drew some girls visiting my house. I guess it was inevitable that I would fine my own strange way to ‘integrate’-one portrait at a time.

How is learning Hausa?
Hausa akwai wuya! It’s hard! But since sitting with this neighbor family I have slowly gotten fewer “she doesn’t hear Hausa”’s and more “She hears Hausa small small! She’s learning!”’s.
Hausa is weird too. It has no adjectives, things just have Somethingness. Josh is not tall, he has tallness. I am not white, I am a ‘whiteperson’.
Also, like any language, there are very odd quirks of grammar and expressions. For example, you can say Niger has more heat than snow, but you cant say Niger has less mud than sand-you have to say it does not have more mud than sand or it has more sand than mud. Also, when I was in hamdalli the guard at the Peace Corps training site would say “see you a lot later” in response to our “see you later” (in Hausa) and I was so affronted for the longest time; he said it with such friendliness but he didn’t want to see me sooner than later? Then a friend explained to me, it’s supposed to mean something like “may we live a long time to see each other much later”. So I walk around confused most of the time, but I’m learning.


Seen any weird bugs yet?
Oh dear me. Better not to ask.
I will say tho that the very generous and neighborly spiders who live in my house have graciously decorated my porch just in time for Halloween. I was going to take the cobwebs down but then I thought it was festive, and a reminder of what time of year it is in American terms. Its hard to believe that it’s October because the days are as long here as in July and the leaves are not red and orange and its not cold! I did take down the spiders’ decorations in my house because I just thought that was going overboard.
Also apropos of bugs; this is the first place I have ever seen people literally have ants in their pants. And did you know that when you turn on the light at night grasshoppers become kamakazies? This is true; I have reenacted Pearl Harbor several times with them. I have heard that people fry them and eat them. I want to try this-one of my friends said it tasted like chips!

How are your fellow PCVs? Do you get to work together or are you somewhat separated while living with your host families?
During training, I saw the other PCTs everyday for class and hanging out. I wouldn’t call it “work”. It was like high school. You go to see your friends, you try to screw around in class as much as possible, you spend the time in the evening that you should be studying hanging out with friends instead and you cram for the tests. At post we all live in separate towns. We see sub region people every week and region teammates every month. We can work on projects together; for example, in Zinder a lot of people come in and do radio shows that are written by us to help get out some message or other. I’ll sit in on one whenever they do that next. Or for example, a sub region friend who has done journalism for several years and I are thinking about talking to the teachers about doing a journalism club together or something of that nature.

Dad
Where were you at 1 pm on July 18th?
My daily planner entry for that day reads: “3 mins of yogurt makes an entire hot boring day scrumptious. Today we sat on goat poop under a thorny tree and watched kids beat each other up and swim in the nasty ‘lake’. I’m gonna see about helping with dinner now {written later:] ßthat was fun.” So that means at 1 I was probably finishing up lunch or laundry and walking down to the “lake” or visiting friends before walking down there.

Other notes:
Dear folks,
Well if I am sending this I probably have not solved world hunger or found a cure for AIDS but I have at last made it through my first month at post and then some. It has been overall pretty positive, if at times hard. I had set two small integration goals for myself, one was being invited to tea with a group of dudes and the other was to be invited to dinner with my neighbor family. I have more or less completed both with a week to go. Men here sit around on mats under trees and drink tea at all hours of the day, but I was worried at first because I didn’t see any teapots anywhere. Then slowly after harvest started winding down I saw one teapot and then two and now I’m seeing quite a few and several dudes called me over once to drink tea with them; goal 1, check. As for the family dinner, I knew I had been invited to come help cook, but I thought also we would eat dinner together because they had been asking me a lot if I ate ‘tuwo’ and I always responded yes. But then after I had finished helping my friend, I walked out to where I had left my stuff and one of the little girls said “kay see you tomorrow” and so I wasn’t sure about my invitation anymore and I left. But then we made popcorn at my house and they fed me a slimey but good boiled bean dough thing called dan wake. So I am counting this as being invited to dinner.
One thing I will say about Niger is that it has an awful lot of Hankuri. ‘Sai hankuri is one of the first expressions that I learned here and it means ‘have patience’. This place is awash with patience. If Niger could bottle its hankuri and export it, this would be the richest country in the world instead of the poorest. Sometimes it’s just too hot to be anything but patient and sometimes there is so much to be impatient about you’d go crazy if you weren’t practicing massive amounts of hankuri. But sometimes I am impressed by the hankuri I see daily. It’s a double edged sward tho, because it leads to another much used Nigerien expression that we heard the first day, ‘en principe’. ‘En principe’ school should be free here and there shouldn’t be schools made out of falling down grass thatch. ‘En principe’ school was supposed to start a week ago; ‘if god wills it‘, it will start tomorrow. ‘En principe’ this is a democratically elected government. But Nigeriens have so much hankuri that when things don’t go according to plan, nothing happens. A lot of times when I talk to Nigeriens, their hankuri starts taking on a defeatist and apathetic tinge. I think this is another hurdle to get over -figuring out how much of that is just a lack of inspiration which I can try to change in a small way and how much is legitimately based in tough facts. For now tho, I am a bit frustrated and trying to try on this hankuri for size.
Here are a few stories, randomly assorted, that I find funny. At the end of training, we were riding in the PC vehicle and I was listening to a conversation that Shuruq a PCV friend and Tondi our training director were having in English French and Hausa. Shuruq is very personable and outgoing and Tondi is a legend among us PCVs- I‘ve never sensed a shred of his personality that I couldn‘t admire. Shuruq asked Tondi, if he could be anywhere in the world where would he be and Tondi replied “Los Angeles, because it’s cool there”.
A few weeks ago, there was a lot of haze in the air. Now I know that it was the end of the rains and there’s just dust in the air for a few days, but at that time, I was wondering if perhaps the farmers were burning the fields or something. I was sitting with my neighbor family and wanted to ask them about it with my limited vocabulary. I couldn’t say “why is the sky all hazy like that? Are the farmers burning the fields?” but I thought I could say “Why is there dust/dirt in the sky?”. Unfortunately the word for dirt is also the word for ground and I guess a Hausa wouldn’t ask my question that way. I think this because I know that to them I said “Why is there ground in the sky?” because they laughed their asses off for minutes about my question. “Why is there ground in the sky? She says! Why is there ground in the sky!”. Well I speak small small Hausa after all, so I joined in the humor and laughed too.
Last week we had a few days of ‘stand-fast’ where we have to be in our villages and couldn’t leave because there *might* be protests in the regional capitols. I’ll be back again for Halloween. Thanks for all the letters I’ve been getting, and its fine to email now as long as you don’t need a reply for 2 or 3 weeks.
~aj

all my letters home so far..#1 and 2

2nd email home
Aug.11
Dear everyone,
Last weekend was our official Niamey tour and the first weekend we were allowed to go to Niamey on our own. On Sunday Tom and I went on our own to a French café for internet and a pain au chocolate- every bite like paris. The internet there wasn’t working, but I grabbed a tiny sliver of internet that was coming from far away and got 2 emails out and tried for a third (destined for Gen, sorry it didn’t work). Tom didn’t get any out, cuz his computer wasn’t as tenacious as mine.
Then we went to the american embassy’s rec center for the pool. It was just like an American suburb’s neighborhood pool (which, considering where I have been for a month and 2 days, that should be interpreted as gushing not sarcastic), only this place had a food bar and a giant turtle! I had a chicken caesar salad and a veggie fajita. The nigerien making everything wasn’t very good at organization, but he made good food. Maybe my standards have dropped tho. Next week I will have a milkshake. I also found an avocado in the market on Saturday which I shared with friends on Sunday tho I should have eaten it right away because part of it was just past prime by the day after.


Sept 1-5ish
Hello Folks,
The biggest headline for this letter is that I am no longer in the healthy pool. I’m pretty sure I am the first person in my stage to have the honor of taking the malaria meds, coartem. I almost definitely didn’t have Malaria, but they wanted to be sure so I had to take them. I got a fever the first night of live-ins, so the first night in my town, Bande, and the next day it wouldn’t go down. Once it hit 103 I got a hold of my regional rep and she came down with the Peace Corps driver. My highest that I measured was 104.4- might be a PR! To those of you at home who are more sensitive to my health issues, stop worrying. I’m just bragging, cuz that’s what you get to do when you have to take malaria meds.
We had site announcements a few weeks ago, so some of you know where I’ll be living after swear-in. I am in Bande, Zinder. Zinder is the region furthest east in Niger that Peace Corps currently serves in, although they are planning to open up Diffa, which boarders Chad, in a year or two. Due to my mystery illness, which may or may not have been officially “rainy season virus” (that has a ring --somebody should make up a song about that, kidos), I had only about 30 hours in my town, but I got to see a good part of it and I met the important people and several of my neighbors. The town is really pretty, which I had given up on hoping for in Niger. There is not a lot of trash in the streets and there are lots or huge trees and park-ish places. There is even a mango grove that, during mango season, everyone just gets free mangos from. The market is pretty okay and I’m only 20k away from Magaria, my “market town” where I can get more variety and possibly do eating out and/or internet, I’m not sure. There is another volunteer from my stage who got posted there, so I can stay over sometimes if I want to bike there and make a long day of it. Everybody I met in town seems really friendly, even for Ramadan --everyone is fasting now and no food or water makes people grumpy. My house is bigger than I’ll probly have in my future life for the next 30 years. It has a big front room and two pretty big back rooms and a small room or really large walk in closet. I don’t think I’ll be able to fill this place up. I have a big shade hanger, front porch, sadly the trees are shorter than me, I have a covered latrine, separate from my covered shower area, a pump in the yard, a drop ceiling in the house and there will eventually be electricity and ceiling fans.
The Zinder hostel is palatial compared to the Dosso one I saw over demyst. I feel really cheesy saying this but I walked in and I thought it felt like coming home. Maybe that was only because it was the closest thing to an American house I’ve seen in 2 months. The zinder hostel, evidently has the best library in country, it has couches and comfy chairs (maybe not quite the pinnacle of comfort that American comfy chair design has reached), a full kitchen minus a microwave, which I hate anyway, 2 full bathrooms and one half –and my friends, these bathrooms, all 3, have sit down toilettes, which is not the case at all the hostels. It has a large front porch and big yard with a grill, and a tv room with an awesome selection of dvds and videos. I really like team Zinder. They seem like a close team, and I hear the other teams don’t have quite as much of a tight team feeling. It is also full of really good cooks, so we are called team fat. I think there was a low voter turnout for my new name election, but I couldn’t get the total soon enough anyway so I just chose for myself. I went with Fatima, so now I am the Fati-est of all of Team Fat.
Coming back to Hamdy after that week was not horrible, but not much fun either. I really enjoyed a week with no “FoFo anasara” and “donne-moi un cadeau” and “comment tu t’appelles?”. We are all going a little insane from the incessant litany of the Hamdallai children’s chorus everywhere we walk. It was getting to us the first few weeks. One day during a break, some people were playing four-square and their phrases for the game were the above mentioned. They were shouting psychotically by the end and I was cracking up. I’m sure I’ll get that a little in bande and zinder, but it’s definitely different in Hamdy, because there are so many of us at once and they’ve had PCTs for so many years, that FoFo anasaraing has become the sport of choice for hamdy kids.
So there is a Brazilian soap opera here named Au Coeur du Peche, but everyone just calls it Barbara, one of the characters’ names. This is as much of what I can make out is going on so far, since I only see it some nights: There is Paco for whom I am sure I saw at least three of the female characters professing love. The nigeriens told me that Paco is the twin of a guy named Apollon who died but had been dating Barbara who, last night, was going a little crazy and insisting that he was Apollon. The poor guy had been gravely hurt in a car accident too --he seems to have a lot of problems. He has a new girlfriend who may be having health problems, but then again, maybe she just fainted into Paco’s arms because, why wouldn’t she? He also has a son whom people are trying to kidnap which was the cause of the car crash last night. The car crash really impressed the nigeriens, they really like bloody action scenes. As a cultural ambassador from western civ, Barbara seems like a strange representative but not the worst. I like to think about what the Nigeriens think of brazil or america or Europe when they see this show.
I still haven’t gotten used to basic sounds in Hausa. “No” is fairly easy; it’s “ah-ah” like “uh-uh” but with ah. What trips me up about that is that in america we say “uh-uh” only for certain informal situations, but you wouldn’t say that to say your governor if she asked you a question. Here, it’s “ah-ah” for chastising little kids or responding to your new boss. Also there is “awo” for “yes”. that is pronounced sometimes like “ooh!” like you just understood something in america. So conversations often sound like to me: one person rattling off a bunch of ordinary stuff and the other person having revelation after revelation, like it’s the most interesting day ever. In fact, last night I figured out a question they asked me and said “oh!” and then responded, “ah-ah”. To them, I said “yes! No” and they laughed. You can also say “eee” for yes. Less common is “eh” like the Canadian eh-bomb. I have been partial to the Canadian eh-bomb for a few years so I am kind of used to that sound and that is the one I use here for yes a lot. Every time I use it tho I wonder if the nigeriens think I’m weird for saying “eh” and not “ee”. I’m trying to break myself of my Canadian ways.
Skip this paragraph if you don’t care about insightful factoids on hausa grammar. Hausa is the first language I have studied that doesn’t have the subject verb structure. In hausa, usually the subject determines the tense and there are three sets of pronouns in present tense. Sometimes also, the negation is combined with the pronoun. Here are all the ‘I’s: ni, ina, kina, zani, bani, ban, na. But once you have the pronouns you can muddle thru all of the tenses without having to conjugate verbs in every wonky way. You have to do things to the “verbs” sometimes in the different tenses, but if you mess it up, people will still understand what you meant. There are verbs, but in some constructions you just use the pronoun and a noun and then some constructions you use the pronoun, the verb for “to do” and the noun. Also, you don’t speak hausa, you hear it.
One amusing and really random anecdote: there has been a series of a few wayward letters sent from america and intended for some place near DC on a street called “Niamey Place”. Somehow, they end up in Niamey at the Peace Corps mail box. We can’t figure out how that happens. Another weird quirk of Peace Corps Niger is that there is a Ricky Martin PCV and a Will Smith in our stage.
Today shuruq and I went via bicycle to bartchawal to visit the other PCTs again for the last time. They will be moving back to site with us in hamdy on Monday which will be tomorrow when I send this -in sha allah. We got in and ate rice with *spooons* in Chad’s hut and then we munched my trail mix all day (thanks mom and dad!). We went over to Bruce-katy’s hut and played pictionary in the sand and threw rocks across the concession into a tin can. I laughed at how entertained we were with rocks and a tin can. That sounds really lame but it was fun, just trust me.
Shuruq has a thermometer and the other day she asked a few of us who were over at her hut what we thought the temperature is. We all thought it was in the 80s and she said nope, somewhere in the upper 90s. I guess I have adjusted, -sannu da acclimation me!
Speaking of adjustment, there are not many opportunities to forget how poor this country is, but you spend enough time in a grass hut and wedged in among 10 people in a station wagon on a bumpy road and you start to think of a metal folding chair and a toilet that flushes as luxury. It happens. One day I had forgotten my american standards and I was watching my family do cooking-type chores. One of them, maybe hadiza I don’t remember, dropped 20 or 30 grains of rice on the ground. I thought to myself, “assha! Well, oh well, the chicken will come around and eat those so they wont be wasted.” But then I watched the girl who cooks my dinners and lunches pick them all up, throw them in the sifter, sift out the dirt and throw them back in the rice bowl. And then I remembered where I was in the context of where I came from. In the states, if I drop a carrot on the floor, I lament it and throw it in the garbage disposal, here if they drop a chunk of gourd in the dirt, they wash off the dirt and throw it in the sauce pot. I’m not throwing this in to harangue about poverty or to blather on about the conditions of living here, because I wasn’t really depressed about it and I don’t think I’ll wash off carrots when I get back to the US. It’s just an illustration that I thought was striking and a little jarring, but mostly just culturally interesting.
Several people have written me letters with questions in them and, while I plan to respond individually -eventually- to everyone who writes, I thought I would include some of these questions, if I haven’t already answered them, in my next mass email. In a month and half I’ll have access to internet again because I’ll be allowed to leave my town and travel to Zinder-city -unless there is internet in Magaria, then I can get online sooner. So anyone who would like to have a question appear in next month’s Ask Audrey, write to me at: Audrey Jacobs PCV /Corps de la Paix /BP 641 /Zinder, Niger. This is my new addy. Hopefully it wont end up someplace near DC.
PS, next time I write -In Sha Allah- I’ll be writing to you as an actual real-life PCV!

Yours truly, ~AJ

1st email home
I haven’t been able to get this email sent twice now, so hopefully I can get this to you today. It is aug 9th. The first order of business is a vote. I want to decide what nigerien name I should take when I go to post (I find out where I’ll be posted this Friday!
In hamdalley I am Sharifa, but I think there are other names I might like better. Here they are, vote for your fav. Ps most have meanings that I cant get rt now to you bc I did ask to see the translation page before I came to Niamey, but whatever, I don’t know what they mean so you don’t have to either.
Fati(ma) bc this is the only place I would ever like being called a fati.
Sharifa, cuz I am that now
Feiza
Aicha (Aysha, sp?)-eye-yee-sha
Also, I have a telephone now. If you do skype, its relatively cheap to call me. I am 6 hrs ahead of Midwest time. Get the number from my mom or dad, I don’t have it on me.
Okay really long email time:


Dear Everyone,
If I survive this and don’t come back early, all of you should know that I am indeed the baddest-ass person you know. This is Peace Corps hard core- that is what the people here said not us newly arrived. Really, it’s Mauritania, Mongolia, and here which vie for hardest PC countries. The first two days I had a fever without knowing it from the god-awful plane ride and everything seemed normal and exactly as it should be, aka I was numb. Everyday last week though after we moved from the sequestered peace corps site to our family’s complexes in Hamdalli I had the culture shock plus heat shock. From 11 am- 5pm everyday I hated this place and I was getting on a plane very soon. Every morning and evening I liked Niger and I could see myself living here for 2 years. But since the second weekend I’ve gotten through the days better so maybe I got over the first bit of culture shock- knock on grass thatch...
Speaking of grass thatch, that is what my hut is made out of. I am going to request concrete for my post. I sleep outside except when the midnight storms roll in, and then I tear down my mosquito net, roll up my sheet, throw my mattress and sheet and mosquito net and book and flashlight in the hut and reassemble inside. Last night I didn’t get any warning before the rain started so my mattress and sheet were kind of wet, which was slightly south of neat. The first night here, there was a huge storm which was prefaced by really fierce wind, which, here, is full of sand. I swear I thought it must have looked like that scene in the mummy where there’s a huge wall of sand flying at you, but it was midnight and I was right in it, scrambling to get inside so I can’t tell you if that’s really what the sand storm looked like.
My host family consists of an old grandma, and by old I mean she is 55 and looks like 83- Haoua-, a young granddaughter, Hadiza, about 18, and a girl who is another granddaughter by a different parent and is 10 named Sharifa. We all get nigerien names our first night here and I am named Sharifa, I assume after this girl. I try to talk to her cuz she hangs out w me the most, but she only speaks Zarma and I am learning Hausa. Her laugh is like the long awaited and needed rain bursts in this dessert, and will take her far in this life, but it’s really sad to see her and the other girls around here who, clearly, would have so much going for them if they could have just a few opportunities. All day long, from when they get up to when they fall asleep they listen to the radio, pretty loud. I thought it might get annoying the first day, but I’ve found that its not that much to get over when I consider that that is their only media unless a neighbor invites them over to watch the Brazilian soap opera on tv at night. Also sometimes the programs are in French and I can get snippets of news, tho the French is hard to understand thru the grass fence and heavy African accent. I eat rice almost every day, I might get pasta if I’m lucky or a corn-mealy thing -all with sauces. The closest I’ve had to veggies except for 2ice a week at the peace corps site was some gourd thing, which I totally copped myself with a machete and no chopping board. I hope I can include pics in this email, so refer to those for more description. I probably wont label them, maybe when I get more time.
Guys, I have toilet paper. It does exist, but right now the peace corps is supplying it to us. I hear it is expensive tho. I will do some pricing and depending on the econ of the situation, kat, mom and dad, I might actually request that, even tho I can’t believe it might be worthwhile.
The town, hamdalli -I am spelling that wrong- is our training town. I sent a letter to mom and dad that shows a map (my approximation of it) and also the size of the hole I pee and poop in. maybe mom will scan this letter and attach it to an email. The streets in hamdy are full of plastic and cloth trash and animal (and maybe kid) poop. It’s really gross. Visually, it was probably the hardest thing to adjust to. Some of the views around town or in the countryside tho are so quintessential Africa- old time traditional stereotyped Africa- grass thatched huts, some on stilts, and mud brick buildings in a southwest landscape. That part is pretty cool. The bajillion kids run around all day in these slummy streets. They play with trash and put anything in their mouths. I am continually telling sharifa not to put my flashlight or colored pencils in her mouth. They literally wear rags, or nothing if they’re really young. -It’s hot here, no kid would want to wear cloths no matter what their economic situation. One day last week, a kid came over with his mom and he was playing with an actual toy. And by actual toy I mean one that I totally remember me and my bro playing with when we were young. It was a little Tonka dump truck hot wheel and he was putting little red rocks in it and dumping them out. I couldn’t take my eyes off him, it was such a weird sight. Besides that toy, the 2 closest things I have seen to toys are a girl with a really dirty colorless bouncy ball and another girl with a really dirty car on a string that makes some sort of noise when it moves. Besides that, there are some boys who run around with sticks that have wheels that they attached to the end of them, kind of like those plastic vacuum toys kids at home sometimes have. My first night, there were some girls clustering around me and one was excitedly showing me a bone that had some hair tied to it. I guessed it was a toy, but I cant figure out how. Overall, the lifestyle here is completely medieval except with plastic and (a few) cars.
Every morning I get masa at the market for breakfast. Masa is a little pancake made of millet and is really good. It’s made in a large cast iron thing with dips -for those of you in the know, it’s like a shallower ableskeeber maker. Sometimes I get it with sugar and sometimes not. When it’s really hot and I’ve had a hard day, I get a refrigerated solani. This is a bag of liquid yogurt and it is delicious. Sometimes I get a cold sprite. This is the first time in my life that a bag of liquid yogurt or cold sprite has been something to dream about. They say veggie season is coming, so I’m holding out hope that there will be more variety soon. By variety I mean that I might get to eat vegetables on a daily basis. I had a conversation over lunch today with the Peace Corps director who was talking about tofu in this country. Evidently, it’s relatively prevalent in the large enough towns. I am hoping for a large community rather than a small town. I think I will hate it if I get a small town. Does anyone know if cactuses grow from seeds? Send me hardy plant seeds, those of you wanting to know what to send. And also maybe fertilizer pellets. So far, I have had maybe 4 oz of meat in this country, and it is really tasty, but I don’t think I need more than I get.
Training has been okay, but it falls within the time of the day that I hate niger and im coming home, so I can’t say many good things about it so far. You guys are lucky, it rained last night so it’s cooler today while im writing this, which means I am far less complainy than you might have gotten had this been yesterday. I tested out of French so im learning Hausa. Hausa is funny. You need to know sooo many greetings. I read a mock conversation script yesterday in a work book and there were maybe 7 lines of greetings and then “what is your name?”. all the villagers quiz me on the greetings, but that’s mostly because all the villagers greet everyone profusely anyway, so maybe I’m not special.
A few nights ago I got out the colored pencils for sharifa and some other girls. They love it and keep asking for them. I’ll get them out tonight again. I try to teach sharifa, whose 10 and doesn’t go to school, her abcs. She’s gotten to e without too much problem. We also play tic tac toe a lot at night. I always win cuz they don’t really get the strategy. I’ve taught them a little strategy mostly thru sign language.
I like cooking with hadiza. The other night we roasted peanuts for another family (the one with the tv). Hadiza put dirt in the big kettle and dumped batches of peanuts in. then we had to keep them moving with a metal ladle which they wrapped rags around because of course the metal got really hot. I did pretty well at it. The nigeriens don’t think americans can do any work, but compared to what they do, we really can’t.
There are some French nurses that come in for a few weeks in batches. We met and talked with the last batch last week and it was great -like taking a little 30 minute trip to paris. They had some mint syrup that you put in water and, even tho I don’t really like mint, I liked this- because it was not plain luke-warm water, which I drink practically intravenously all day long. I will meet the next batch of French nurses pretty soon, maybe tonight. Hope they’re as friendly and lovely as the last batch.
A fellow trainee, shuruq, and I walked 22 kilometers to and from the neighboring town where there are 5 trainees. Along the way we had tea with a road construction guy, which was a neat experience. It was after he mentioned that he sits around all day and dreams of romance that I decided I would be married whenever I travel from now on. Do I have any guy friends who will be married to me for the next 2 years while im in Africa? Can I have a pic? We decided we are among the hardest core of the hardest core of the peace corps for this trek. After that, solani was probably the closest thing to nirvana I will ever experience. We laughed really hard at ourselves because we say things here that we would never say state side. I said, for example, “when I get home, I’m going to do yoga in my shorts and I don’t care what the neighbors think!” (we are not supposed to show as much as our knees to the ppl in our compounds and in public our shoulders should not show and those who go to small conservative communities wont be able to show ankles or wear pants. -I don’t think I’ll be able to take the no pants thing, I hate the skirts here). They have since outlawed walking to that town.

Okay a ps now: mom please send a toothbrush case-full length and one that I can clean out preferably, and also the Japanese fan on my wall in my room by my window. Unless you’ve gutted my room already.
Also a package of cookie dough mix and orbitz wintermint gum.

Last weekend was demyst which was pretty fun. Demystification weekend is where we go stay with a volunteer to see what its like to be one in Niger. We rode in the Magic bus on the way there, it was a hilarious ride, just from conversations and some things that happened. The magic bus I think got its name because you can squeeze so many people in it. We had 22 people in it on our trip. No goats or children, just backpacks- re: the bush taxis paragraph below. We saw giraffes from afar, someone who stayed with a volunteer who works with a giraffe tour company got to see them up close. Lucky them.
On the way we were stopped for a while where the road turned one lane for road construction. There was a van in front of us that looked like it was some music band’s touring van. There was a guy chillin at the back of it with crazy bob marley dreds. He started making gestures to the 2 girls in front who were able to respond to him because we had had a seemingly useless training session on Nigerien non-verbal communication. They talked about how he wanted to marry them and they said that they were married to everyone in the van. It was very funny to watch, but I don’t think hand gestures translate well in verbal form. I thought it was crazy that that really useless session in fact came in handy.

We arrived at terri’s in fabriji. I stayed there with a fellow PCT named Shane and we had popcorn with honey and salt, popcorn has never tasted so good to me. She also made us a hot pocket tuna melt thing, and bush pizzas, dipping into her care package supplies even! Its good to know I can eat stuff other than spicy rice when I get to my post. We had some mms, evidently they travel well…
We met terri’s coworkers and friends. The little girl of terri’s best friend “in ville” was super cute and tiny for a year old. That family was kind of progressive and kind of not, in interesting ways. On the one hand the wife was taking birth control and they were planning on not having another kid till they can pay for her education. On the other hand, the husband had recently bought a goat and terri said the wife thinks he is angling to get a second wife.
Terri’s town has a middle school and an elementary. We saw the middle school and I almost cried. Its made out of material that my fence in Hamdy is made out of, several “buildings” were falling down, and girls from towns far away work hours and hours for room and board in that town just to go to school, if they’re lucky enough for that. I kept thinking about my middle school and this school and my middle school and this school and I had to stop thinking about it. It was shocking. Even Tondi, our training leader here, was interested to know we had seen that, I think because Tanja (Nigerian president) makes it seem like those kinds of schools don’t exist anymore. In the same town, there was a solar powered water pump. More towns need those, because if anywhere in the world should be powered by solar, it is niger. I just wish the middle school hadn’t been so sad.
The next day we went to the Peace Corps hostel in that region in Dosso city and the day after that we stopped by the Peace Corps bureau in Niamey before taking a bush taxi back to Hamdy. In Niamey we went to a restaurant for the first time in country. Lunch cost me more than a skirt that I had a tailor make cost me, but it was still just a few American bucks. We also had raw vegetables, which were delicious and worth anything but im sure will make me sick a day from now. I have not been sick yet, but several people have been. I am really luxuriating in my time as a non-sick person, it doesn’t look fun. We have a girl Early-Terminating tomorrow because she has had blood pressure problems since she got here among more normal problems. She is from New York state and trying to adjust to a place were some PCTs have made tea by leaving their nalgiene with a tea bag in the sun for a few minutes. I feel sad tho, cuz she was one of the cool people that I wish wouldn’t leave.
Bush taxis are the one thing in this country that I really shouldn’t tell any of you about, but I’m going to anyway. They are crazy. The drivers stuff like 20-30 people plus goats, chickens and children into a 12 person van. I’m not looking forward to being peed on but evidently its inevitable, like being sick. In the bush taxis that I took there were only like 15 anasaras and 2 or 3 Nigeriens. So it was pretty calm. Anasara is the commonly used word here for “white person” but it means “conqueror”. I have gotten used to it. The other week we yelled “Anasara!” to the French nurses one morning when they were walking down the street and the nigeriens looked around at us like “yeah, there you go”.
There was a VAT- a PCV who is helping out with our training- last week who is doing a photo project for the school textbooks and she talked about how she can’t do the drawings and they are having problems with the guy they hired for that in Niamey. So I might have parleyed my way into that project, doing the drawings, which would be exciting and fun for me, cuz I know I will need to be doing real work my first few months and not just “integrating” or I will have a harder time.
Aug4. This is turning into a diary entry letter because I have not been able to send emails when I meant to due to the Dark Ages. On Sunday Shuruq and I went to Bartchawal-the town 11k away with other PCTs- again, but this time we biked, because walking has been outlawed. Evidently, they feel bus taxies are safer than our own two legs. I am starting to understand how some people sometimes have problems with the being babied aspect of training. Lots of things will be better when I get to post. Bartchawal was fun. We played catchphrase and for lunch, chad’s host-mom made rice with onions and some sort of sundried tomato thing (that’s me ogling-sun dried tomatoes!). For dessert: Shuruq and Chad had procured the weekend before a jar of Nutella and Chad found some airplane cookies that he had forgotten about. We had chocolate glazed gingerbread cookies. It tasted like Christmas. Then we were invited over to the language trainer’s for shaiye (aka Chai, or Niger’s version of it). It is really fun to see made. I will get the teapots and basket necessary to make it when I get to post. Its very strong and very sugary and I couldn’t take more than one shot glass full on my empty stomach. They get and inch and a half of foam with no machine.
I was telling Shuruq on the way there, that when I was washing my unmentionables the day before I had been swirling them around in the bucket, wishing I had a washing machine, and I thought to myself “I am my own spin cycle”. Then I thought, “I am my own horse power.” Shuruq had been moaning about the bumpy road and I said, “we are our own shock absorbers”. And then later when we were sitting watching the chai making, I said to her, “when I make chai, I will be my own frappacino maker!”
When I got back to Hamdy, the kids were particularly interested in watching me and I had an audience for my tooth brushing routine. I had been spitting in an out of the way place in my concession, but I wasn’t sure if that would be culturally weird. The kids didn’t seem to care, they just thought my tooth brushing in general was entertaining (they chew on a certain kind of stick here for dental hygiene). I also figured out how to say “tomorrow morning Peace Corps is planting trees. Can (little) Sharifa come?” and said it to Haoua. I have said maybe 3 complete sentences to here so far.
On Saturday, some PCTs were sitting down by the “lake” and two of them started trying to get two bugs to fight. They drew a ring and pushed them toward each other with sticks. It was unappealing and I left soon after. When we were telling some other PCTs about the depths we had sunk to that day they said, “wait, the kids were playing with bugs?” and I said, “no, the anasaras were playing with bugs.” I am not a fan of the “lake”.
Some of my friends, Anna, Cindy and Shuruq, and I were hanging out later in Anna’s concession. Our conversation that day quite literally consisted of the following subjects: about 50% poop or lack there of, 20% foods that we can’t have here because it doesn’t exist, and 30% of home because we had gotten letters for the first time a day or 2 before. This is a fairly exhaustive survey of PCT conversations.
Robyn got Harry Potter in the mail and we watched it! I mean the Harry Potter movie that is out in theatres now! Her brother sent her a bootleg copy to here asap, and it was a damned fine bootleg copy! Robyn’s brother rocks J
Last week we had GAD-gender and development- Olympics. Our teams competed in the following events: tea making, bucket on head with baby (sand sac) on back in a skirt carrying, and peanut butter pounding. My team came in second over all by a half point and won the peanut pounding event because we are world class peanut pounders (and also maybe because we surreptitiously threw a handful of sugar into our batch). But hey, the judges chose our peanut butter and choosy mom’s would have chosen ours too.